Shower Remodeling in Boise's North End
Tub-to-shower conversions, curbless walk-ins, accessible builds — properly waterproofed showers in 80–120-year-old North End bathrooms with the structural and tile experience these projects require.
Shower remodels are the single most-requested bathroom project in Boise's North End right now — driven by aging-in-place demand from owners staying long-term, rental-prep work for properties being modernized, and just plain frustration with cramped 50-square-foot bathrooms whose original bathtubs aren't getting used. Building a properly waterproofed walk-in shower in an 80–120-year-old bathroom is genuinely different from the same work in a 2010 Harris Ranch home: the floor structure is heavier and less standardized, the plumbing is original galvanized that almost always needs rework when the shower valve moves, the wall framing predates modern stud spacing standards, and the existing tile and substrate require careful demolition. Iron Crest has converted dozens of North End tub-bathrooms into walk-in showers and built dozens more new walk-ins from scratch in remodeled or new bathrooms. Below is what to expect, how it actually gets built, and why proper waterproofing matters more in older homes than anywhere else.
Shower remodels in the North End vary by what era of bathroom you're working in. Original construction methods, existing tub type, and the available wall framing all differ across the four eras.
1900–1925: Original Craftsman bathrooms
Tiny bathrooms (35–55 sq ft) with original cast-iron clawfoot or alcove tubs, hex floor tile, beadboard wainscoting. Original construction is balloon framing with lath-and-plaster walls. Plumbing is galvanized supply and cast-iron drain. Shower projects almost always require: tub removal (300+ pounds of cast iron), structural assessment of the floor (cast iron tubs often sit on reinforced framing), full waterproofing rebuild, plumbing rework, and modern code-compliant fan ducting.
1925–1940: Tudor Revival, Colonial Revival
Slightly larger bathrooms (55–80 sq ft) with original tile work in colored ceramic patterns, often with built-in alcove tubs (heavy steel rather than cast iron in some 1930s installs), and more substantial original plumbing. Shower projects here can sometimes preserve original tile floor while replacing tub area with new walk-in shower — cosmetic continuity that newer-era bathrooms can't replicate.
1945–1965: Post-war ranch bathrooms
5-foot steel alcove tubs in post-war pink/blue/mint-green tile bathrooms. Plumbing is copper supply and cast-iron drains. Wall framing is modern stud spacing. Shower projects involve standard demolition (steel tubs are lighter than cast iron), tile-and-mortar removal, and modern build-back. Aesthetics typically favor a complete bathroom refresh rather than period preservation.
1985–present: Infill and renovated bathrooms
Modern construction. Shower projects here are essentially standard walk-in builds with current materials and methods, with no environmental or structural complications.
Shower projects in the North End fall into recognizable shapes based on what you're starting with and what you're building.
1. The Tub-to-Shower Conversion — primary bath upgrade
Remove the existing tub (cast iron, steel, or fiberglass) and replace with a walk-in shower in the same footprint. The most common shower remodel by count. Standard scope: tub removal, drain location adjustment (shower drain is typically centered while tub drain is offset), Schluter Kerdi or red-board waterproofing across the new wet area, tile walls and floor, frameless glass enclosure, new shower valve and fixtures. Removes the tub from the bathroom entirely, freeing 30–35 sq ft of footprint for a more spacious shower.
Target homes: Any North End bathroom with an existing tub the owner doesn't want to keep. Permit: plumbing permit; building permit if any structural change.
2. The Curbless Walk-In — accessibility and modern aesthetic
A walk-in shower with no curb between bathroom floor and shower floor — the floor slopes continuously to a linear drain at the wall. Provides genuine wheelchair accessibility, eliminates the trip hazard of a traditional curb, and reads as the highest-end modern shower aesthetic. Requires careful waterproofing detail and a specific drain selection (Kerdi-Line linear drain). The floor must drop slightly into the shower area to create slope, requiring subfloor adjustment in older homes.
Target homes: Bathrooms with floor structure that supports the slight drop into the shower area; aging-in-place priority. Permit: building and plumbing permits.
3. The New Walk-In in a Remodeled Bathroom — fresh build
Building a walk-in shower as part of a broader bathroom remodel where the bathroom is being gutted to studs anyway. Lower marginal cost than a standalone shower remodel because demo and waterproofing are already in scope. Allows for layout flexibility — the shower can go where it makes most sense rather than where the tub used to be.
Target homes: North End homes doing comprehensive bathroom remodels. Permit: full bath permit suite.
4. The Accessible / ADA-Style Shower — universal design build
Walk-in shower designed for full mobility-impaired access: curbless entry with continuous floor slope, 60″ width minimum (allowing wheelchair entry and reverse), wall-mounted bench at chair-transfer height, blocking installed in walls for current or future grab bars, hand-shower on slide bar, anti-scald thermostatic valve, slip-resistant floor tile rated for accessibility. Designed to read as a beautiful modern shower rather than as medical equipment.
Target homes: North End owners 55+ planning to age in place; rental properties marketed to seniors. Permit: building and plumbing permits.
5. The Wet-Room — entire bathroom waterproofed
European-style design where the entire bathroom is treated as a wet area — no shower enclosure at all, the shower head simply mounts on a wall and the entire floor slopes to a central or linear drain. Tile floor and walls throughout. Requires comprehensive waterproofing (Schluter Kerdi or equivalent membrane on every surface), heated floor (highly recommended for comfort after showering), and careful attention to ventilation. Less common in North End but increasingly requested.
Target homes: Larger North End bathrooms (80+ sq ft) where the design vision supports a wet-room approach. Permit: building and plumbing permits.
The North End spans roughly two square miles with distinct sub-neighborhoods, each with its own remodeling personality.
13th Street & Hyde Park
The cultural and commercial heart of the North End — boutique shops and restaurants along 13th between Brumback and Eastman, with the densest concentration of original Craftsman bungalows on the surrounding blocks. Lots are tight (typically 50' frontage), alley access is common, and the neighborhood is heavily walked. Most homes here are 1905–1925 Craftsman.
Camel's Back & Heron Streets
The streets immediately around Camel's Back Park, climbing slightly into the lower foothills. Mostly Craftsman bungalows with some Tudor Revival mixed in. Lots get larger toward the park edge, and some homes back to the Foothills Reserve with significant trees. Project budgets here tend to be higher — these are some of the most coveted blocks in the city.
Harrison Boulevard corridor
The grand divided boulevard running south-to-north through the heart of the North End, lined with the neighborhood's largest historic homes. Tudor Revival, Colonial Revival, and a few notable Prairie-style houses sit on deep lots with mature plantings. Projects here lean toward sympathetic upgrade rather than reconfiguration — these homes already have generous floor plans.
Fort Boise & Capitol-area North End
The streets around Fort Boise Park and stretching toward the State Capitol grounds — a mix of original Craftsman bungalows, larger 1920s and 1930s homes, and a higher proportion of post-war infill. Lots vary widely. Project scopes span the full range depending on house age and homeowner intent.
North of Hill Road / new infill
The northern fringe of the historic North End, where construction continued through the 1950s and where modern infill has been most active. Newer (1945–present), larger, less constrained by historic-district considerations. Projects here look more like SE Boise or Harris Ranch in scope and material strategy.
Lower-numbered streets (3rd–9th)
The streets between the State Capitol grounds and Fort Boise — traditionally a more working-class section of the North End, with a mix of smaller Craftsman bungalows, post-war houses, and some converted multi-family. Increasingly being renovated as North End demand pushes outward from the 13th Street core. Excellent value if you can find an unrenovated home here.
Shower remodel pricing in the North End reflects waterproofing rigor, demolition complexity in older homes, and tile labor for period-appropriate patterns.
North End shower remodeling ranges
New shower in remodeled bathroom (incremental) (marginal cost above bathroom remodel base): $14,000–$26,000 / aligned with bath remodel
Standard tub-to-shower conversion (tub removal, traditional curbed walk-in shower with tile and glass enclosure): $22,000–$36,000 / 5–7 weeks
Curbless walk-in conversion (tub removal, floor restructured for slope, curbless entry, linear drain, frameless glass): $28,000–$42,000 / 6–9 weeks
Accessible / aging-in-place (curbless, blocking for grab bars, bench, hand-shower, ADA-compliant fixtures): $32,000–$48,000 / 7–10 weeks
Wet-room conversion (entire bathroom waterproofed, heated floor, fully tiled walls): $36,000–$48,000 / 8–11 weeks
Pricing assumes Iron Crest's standard scope: full City of Boise plumbing/building permits, environmental testing and required abatement, EPA RRP-certified work practices for pre-1978 homes, professional waterproofing (Schluter Kerdi system or red-board membrane), porcelain or ceramic tile install, frameless glass enclosure, new thermostatic shower valve and fixtures, and a 5-year workmanship warranty. Contingency budget of 12–15% above contract value for older-home discovery.
The North End Historic District boundary covers most — but not all — of the North End. The district is administered by the City of Boise Historic Preservation Commission, which reviews exterior modifications within the district boundary. Interior work, including comprehensive remodels, is exempt from Historic Preservation review. This is the single most important permitting fact to internalize: your interior work doesn't need historic review, regardless of how aggressive the scope.
Where Historic Preservation review enters the picture is when your project includes any exterior change. Examples we encounter regularly: enlarging a window, relocating an exterior door, adding an exterior-vented hood that requires a new wall penetration, building a small addition or bump-out, or replacing a side-yard window with a different style. Any of these requires a Certificate of Appropriateness from the Historic Preservation Commission, which adds 4–8 weeks to the permit timeline and typically requires architectural drawings showing the proposed change in context.
For interior-only projects, the standard City of Boise permits apply: a building permit for structural work (wall removal, beam installation), an electrical permit for new circuits or panel work, a plumbing permit for fixture relocation or new water lines, and a mechanical permit for ducting or HVAC modifications. Permit fees for a typical mid-range project run several hundred to a few thousand dollars depending on scope. Processing times: electrical and plumbing permits are often same-day or next-day; building permits with structural drawings take 3–5 weeks for full review.
One North End-specific permit consideration: parking and right-of-way. Placing a dumpster on the street or parking a construction trailer at the curb requires a City of Boise right-of-way permit ($75–$250 depending on duration and footprint). Some North End streets have additional restrictions related to the historic neighborhood designation. Iron Crest pulls all required right-of-way permits as part of project setup.
Shower material selection in a North End bathroom is about durability, waterproofing performance, and period-sympathetic aesthetics. Modern engineering meets historic context.
Waterproofing membrane
Schluter Kerdi (orange polyethylene fabric bonded to substrate with thinset) is our standard for shower waterproofing. Industry-leading performance, fully waterproof barrier behind the tile, easy to detail at corners and around penetrations. Alternative: red-board membrane (less expensive, slightly less reliable for complex shapes). Avoid: cement-board-only construction without a separate membrane (this is the 1990s standard that fails 10–15 years later in older Boise homes).
Wall tile
Subway tile in 3x6 or 4x12 with thin sanded grout joints is the period-correct choice for pre-1940 North End showers. Beveled or handmade-look ceramic adds period authenticity. For showers in newer-era bathrooms or contemporary aesthetic, large-format porcelain (12x24 or 24x48) works well and reduces grout joint count. Stack pattern, brick pattern, or vertical orientation all read as appropriate. Grout: epoxy or premium sanded with sealer; avoid standard cementitious grout in shower applications — it stains and erodes.
Floor tile and slope
Mosaic tile (1″–2″) is required for shower floor — the small grout joints provide slip resistance and the small tiles allow proper slope to drain. Period-correct hex mosaic in white-with-black-dot reads beautifully in a Craftsman bathroom. Penny round mosaic is another period-appropriate option. Floor slope minimum 1/4 inch per foot to drain location. For curbless designs, slope must be achieved within the bathroom floor itself, requiring subfloor depression.
Drain selection
Standard center drain (round, 4″) for traditional curbed showers. Linear drain (Schluter Kerdi-Line, Infinity Drain, etc.) for curbless designs — typically positioned along the wall opposite the shower head, allowing single-direction floor slope and a more refined aesthetic than a center drain. Linear drain costs $400–$1,200 above standard drain.
Glass enclosure
Frameless 3/8″ tempered glass is the modern standard — minimal hardware, clean aesthetic, durable. Single fixed panel, single fixed plus pivot door, or full enclosure all work depending on layout. Brushed nickel, polished chrome, oil-rubbed bronze, or matte black hinges and clips depending on the rest of the bathroom finish family. Custom-cut to fit the specific shower opening (templated after wall tile is installed; 1-week fabrication).
Fixtures
Thermostatic shower valve (vs. pressure-balance) is the higher-quality choice — maintains constant temperature regardless of pressure changes elsewhere in the house, allowing flow adjustment without temperature shift. Rain shower head (8″–12″ ceiling-mount or wall-mount) plus hand-shower on slide bar is the modern standard. For period-correct Craftsman shower: exposed valve assembly with cross-handle controls, single shower head on a 6″ arm. Fixture finish should match other bathroom finishes (chrome, polished nickel, oil-rubbed bronze).
Shower remodels in older North End bathrooms surface specific discovery items related to existing tub installation, plumbing condition, and floor structure.
- •Cast iron tub heavier than expected — requires more removal labor. Original cast iron clawfoot or alcove tubs weigh 300–400 pounds. Removal requires careful lifting with multiple workers or breaking the tub in place with a sledgehammer (loud but effective). $200–$600 above standard tub removal.
- •Original tub set on reinforced floor framing. Cast iron tubs were often installed before surrounding flooring was finished, with framing reinforced specifically for the tub load. Removing the tub and rebuilding the floor for shower load can require subfloor and joist work. $400–$1,500.
- •Galvanized supply lines that fail when disturbed. Existing galvanized supply lines feeding the tub valve are 80–120 years old and often fail at fittings when disturbed during demolition. Replacement of nearby supply runs: $400–$1,500.
- •Drain location requiring subfloor adjustment. Tub drains are offset; shower drains are typically centered. Moving the drain location requires subfloor cutting, drain rerouting through joist bays, and structural adjustment. $400–$1,500.
- •Failed waterproofing under existing tub or shower discovered during demo. Subfloor and joist damage from long-term water leaks under failing waterproofing. Patch repair: $400–$1,500. Joist sister or replacement: $800–$2,500.
- •Existing shower valve and rough-in non-compliant with current code. Pre-1990s shower valves often lack anti-scald protection that modern code requires. Existing valve must be replaced. $400–$1,200 above standard new valve install.
- •Asbestos in existing tile mortar bed or backing. Pre-1980 mortar beds and tile backing materials sometimes contain asbestos. Required testing identifies. Abatement: $1,200–$3,500.
- •Lead paint on bathroom walls disturbed during shower wall demo. Universal in pre-1978 homes. EPA RRP-certified work practices for any disturbance. Built into Iron Crest's labor pricing.
- •Floor structure inadequate for curbless slope requirement. Achieving curbless shower slope (sloping the bathroom floor itself toward the drain) requires subfloor depression. Older homes sometimes have inadequate joist depth to safely depress the subfloor enough. Engineering review and joist reinforcement: $1,500–$4,500.
Consultation and assessment (Week 1)
In-home walkthrough, measurement of bathroom and existing tub/shower, photograph of existing conditions, discussion of shower shape and feature priorities, identification of mechanical concerns.
Environmental testing (Week 1–2)
Asbestos and lead testing on suspect materials in the shower wall area. Results back in 5–7 business days.
Design and material selection (Week 2)
Tile selections, glass enclosure layout, fixture and valve selections, drain placement. Detailed line-item estimate with contingency called out.
Permitting and material ordering (Weeks 2–4)
Plumbing and building permits to City of Boise. Tile, glass enclosure (templated after walls go up), fixtures, valve, waterproofing materials ordered.
Demolition (Week 4–5)
Tub or existing shower removal. Tile and substrate removal. Subfloor inspection and repair if needed. Containment and HEPA scrubbers if pre-1978 home.
Plumbing rough-in (Week 5)
Drain location adjustment, supply line modifications, new shower valve set, anti-scald thermostatic mixing valve. City of Boise plumbing rough-in inspection.
Waterproofing and substrate (Week 5–6)
Cement board on shower walls (where applicable). Schluter Kerdi membrane install across all wet areas. Pre-slope mortar bed for shower floor. Curb construction if curbed design.
Tile install (Weeks 6–8)
Wall tile install with thin grout joints and proper movement allowances. Floor tile install on properly sloped substrate. Grout install (typically 24-hour cure). Sealer application to grout.
Glass enclosure, fixtures, and final inspection (Weeks 8–10)
Glass enclosure templated and fabricated (1-week lead) and installed. Shower head, hand-shower, valve trim installed. Final plumbing and building inspections. Punch-list walk. 5-year workmanship warranty begins.
Shower waterproofing is the highest-stakes detail in any bathroom — failure means hidden water damage, joist rot, mold, and tens of thousands of dollars of repair work years later. Hiring for this work specifically requires verified competence in waterproofing systems and tile installation, not generic remodeling capability.
- City of Boise Historic Preservation Commission — Design review information, district maps, and Certificate of Appropriateness application.
- City of Boise Planning & Development Services — Building, electrical, plumbing, and mechanical permits. Online portal and in-person plan check.
- Idaho DEQ Asbestos Program — Testing and abatement requirements for pre-1980 homes.
- EPA Lead Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) Program — Required certification and work practices for renovation in lead-paint homes.
- Preservation Idaho — Statewide nonprofit advocating for historic preservation. Resources and educational events.
How long does a North End tub-to-shower conversion take?
5–8 weeks from contract signing to final walkthrough for a standard tub-to-shower conversion. Breakdown: 1 week design and material selection, 2 weeks permit + environmental testing + material ordering (concurrent), 1 week demolition + plumbing rough-in, 1 week waterproofing + substrate, 2 weeks tile install (including grout cure), 1 week glass enclosure templating and install plus final inspections.
What waterproofing system do you use for North End showers?
Schluter Kerdi membrane system on all wet areas — an orange polyethylene fabric bonded to the substrate with thin-set mortar that creates a fully waterproof barrier behind the tile. We're certified Schluter installers. The Kerdi system far outperforms the old vinyl-and-felt or cement-board-only methods that failed in countless North End bathrooms over the decades. For curbless designs, we use Schluter Kerdi-Line linear drains with properly-sloped mortar beds to achieve slope without curbs.
Can you do a curbless walk-in shower in my older Craftsman bathroom?
Usually yes, but it requires structural assessment. Curbless showers need the bathroom floor itself to slope toward the drain — typically requiring depression of the subfloor in the shower area to achieve slope without raising the rest of the floor above adjacent rooms. Older homes have variable joist depths and sometimes inadequate clearance for the depression. Iron Crest assesses feasibility during the consultation, including subfloor inspection and structural review if needed.
What does a tub-to-shower conversion cost in the North End?
$22,000–$42,000 typical range. Lower end: tub removal, traditional curbed walk-in shower with subway tile and frameless glass enclosure. Higher end: curbless walk-in with custom tile pattern, premium fixtures, larger glass enclosure, and any structural work for older-home discovery. Pricing varies based on tub type being removed (cast iron is harder to remove than steel), tile selection, and any plumbing rerouting required.
How do you handle the 100-year-old plumbing in a North End shower remodel?
We assume galvanized supply lines and original cast-iron drains in any pre-1960 North End bathroom and budget for replacement of supply runs feeding the shower valve. New supply: PEX or copper from main shutoff or branch tap to the new valve. New drain: PVC from the shower drain back to the existing main drain stack (or replacement of the drain stack if it shows deterioration). This work is part of the standard scope, not a surprise change order.
Can I save my original Craftsman bathroom tile while installing a new shower?
Sometimes. Original hex mosaic floor tile or vintage colored wall tile can occasionally be preserved when the shower work is contained to a specific zone (e.g., the tub alcove). This requires careful demolition with hand tools rather than power demolition, and accepting that occasional tile replacement may be needed where new construction abuts old. We discuss preservation goals during consultation and develop a demolition plan accordingly.
What about glass enclosure cleaning and maintenance in Boise's hard water?
Boise's hard water (12–17 grains per gallon) leaves visible mineral deposits on glass enclosures. Application of a hydrophobic glass coating (EnduroShield or ShowerGuard) at install time substantially reduces deposit accumulation and makes ongoing cleaning much easier — recommended for any new glass enclosure. Adds $200–$400 to install cost. Without coating, weekly squeegee after each use plus monthly deep clean with vinegar-based cleaner is the maintenance routine.
Do you offer fixed-price contracts for shower remodels?
Yes — with a clearly defined contingency line for older-home discovery work. Every Iron Crest contract includes a 10–15% contingency budget for the surprises that emerge when older bathroom walls and floors open. The base contract price is fixed; the contingency is drawn against only when documented discovery issues arise, with itemized change orders.
Ready to start your North End shower remodeling project?
Free in-home consultation, honest contingency-based budgeting, and the experience these older Boise homes require. Iron Crest Remodel — Idaho RCE #6681702, EPA RRP lead-safe certified, $2M general liability, 5-year workmanship warranty.
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